Recommend me a knife for under $60. - Page 2

313Chris · March 11th, 2014

Anybody have any experience with the Buck 120 General? Is it better/as good/not as good as a current-manufacture Ka-Bar?

Lucian A. · March 13th, 2014

Since getting the knife bug, I've been studying the actual science of blades as it concerns metallurgy and mechanical physics from all the big names, especially Cliff Stamp, to get the best idea of how it all works before buying anything.

What an eye opener.

Things I've learned.........

two kinds of sharpness exist, polished edges like on a barber's razor or a wood chisel, and so called 'toothy' edges that are basically micro-serrations

the vast majority of users prefer the latter

that preference is behind most opinions concerning the quality of any given knife, or more accurately the ability of a certain alloy of steel to accept and then retain that kind of edge

most steels, irrespective of alloy or price, will accept a razor polished edge

what kind of heat treatment a steel gets is more important to everything performance-wise than what kind of alloy it is

and Jimmy Fallon isn't funny

keifer · March 13th, 2014

Lucian, I would be interested in hearing more about what you learn. From what I have read is that heat treat is the key, and on that note Buck is regarded as having decent heat treat which puts it ahead of the other twenty dollar knives made in china. The heat treat is also why northern European blades are the best made. Blade profile is extremely important as well, and this has as much to do with personal preference as it does form and function. This gets at the previous post about Kbar vs Buck and which is better. Before that question is answered, first ask why choose that particular profile, that being of a Saber grind, if I am not mistaken. Most prefer a Scandinavian grind, Scandi for short. The main reason being is that it is easy to sharpen with its single edge profile. This has a level of convenience for work in the field, and that the best way to get a knife sharp is to never let it get dull. Stropping is the key to getting it right and can't be overstated. Although it has been said there no is such a thing as too sharp, this is not necessarily true because it can make the edge vulnerable to chipping. There is a difference between getting a knife to shave hair on the arm and getting hair-popping sharpness. Many edges will saw the hair, because of inherent serrated edge that all knives have, but when the hair pops, then it is the result of surgical precision tuned blade. Before sharpening on a stone, take a sharpie marker and lay thin a black line at the length of the blades edge on both sides. As you work the metal on the stone it will remove the ink and show where you are getting uneven application on the stone. Where there is no ink, there has been pressure, where there is ink, no pressure has been applied in that area.

keifer · March 13th, 2014

Here is the magic marker trick demonstrated for even sharpening. It is key to know the proper angle for the blade set by the manufacturer. This process has been instrumental in elevating my own personal skill set beyond the amateur.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kzGvtX-h8g

keifer · March 17th, 2014

Making a knife from a file. A search on file knives will reveal a good deal of information. There are some impressive projects out there. The outcome is only limited to your own skill set and imagination. I have started my first attempt and keep you updated.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROVXVDlCdH0

Kevin Phelps · May 26th, 2014

When I was younger I got a nice pocket knife for a price I can't remember, but definitely less than $60. It has a sleak look and works great for self-defense or any other reason. The blade is nice and sturdy too.

May 26th, 2014	#26
Kevin Phelps Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Posts: 102	When I was younger I got a nice pocket knife for a price I can't remember, but definitely less than $60. It has a sleak look and works great for self-defense or any other reason. The blade is nice and sturdy too. __________________ Pro-diversity guy. I believe that if a person wants to live in a society with people like them, then that is fine if that is what they desire. However diverse and multiracial states should exist for those like me to want to live in and thrive.

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March 11th, 2014	#21
313Chris Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 1,139	Anybody have any experience with the Buck 120 General? Is it better/as good/not as good as a current-manufacture Ka-Bar?

March 13th, 2014	#22
Lucian A. Banned Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 337	Since getting the knife bug, I've been studying the actual science of blades as it concerns metallurgy and mechanical physics from all the big names, especially Cliff Stamp, to get the best idea of how it all works before buying anything. What an eye opener. Things I've learned......... two kinds of sharpness exist, polished edges like on a barber's razor or a wood chisel, and so called 'toothy' edges that are basically micro-serrations the vast majority of users prefer the latter that preference is behind most opinions concerning the quality of any given knife, or more accurately the ability of a certain alloy of steel to accept and then retain that kind of edge most steels, irrespective of alloy or price, will accept a razor polished edge what kind of heat treatment a steel gets is more important to everything performance-wise than what kind of alloy it is and Jimmy Fallon isn't funny

March 13th, 2014	#23
keifer Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 2,216	Lucian, I would be interested in hearing more about what you learn. From what I have read is that heat treat is the key, and on that note Buck is regarded as having decent heat treat which puts it ahead of the other twenty dollar knives made in china. The heat treat is also why northern European blades are the best made. Blade profile is extremely important as well, and this has as much to do with personal preference as it does form and function. This gets at the previous post about Kbar vs Buck and which is better. Before that question is answered, first ask why choose that particular profile, that being of a Saber grind, if I am not mistaken. Most prefer a Scandinavian grind, Scandi for short. The main reason being is that it is easy to sharpen with its single edge profile. This has a level of convenience for work in the field, and that the best way to get a knife sharp is to never let it get dull. Stropping is the key to getting it right and can't be overstated. Although it has been said there no is such a thing as too sharp, this is not necessarily true because it can make the edge vulnerable to chipping. There is a difference between getting a knife to shave hair on the arm and getting hair-popping sharpness. Many edges will saw the hair, because of inherent serrated edge that all knives have, but when the hair pops, then it is the result of surgical precision tuned blade. Before sharpening on a stone, take a sharpie marker and lay thin a black line at the length of the blades edge on both sides. As you work the metal on the stone it will remove the ink and show where you are getting uneven application on the stone. Where there is no ink, there has been pressure, where there is ink, no pressure has been applied in that area.